How do I know if my American Standard Toilet Smart Flow valve system is working correctly?
Sep 09, 2006 by Jennygrl | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs
Ok, I have determined that the toilet is running too much. I replaced the flapper and put a new ring below it, the seal seems to be working fine.
I have an American Standard "Smart Flow" (yellow and black plastic thingamajiggy) in place of a floating ball or Fluidmaster set up. When I turned the water back on and flushed, the water level rose to just above the lip of the center pipe (overflow pipe?), which goes into the pipe, an inch above the normal level. There is a rubber tube that runs from the Smart Flow valve, and water is also running out of this tube into the pipe (hence, more wasted water?). The water continues to run.
I cannot see a way to lower the water level. The arm that runs from the flush knob to the chain is about 45 degee angle (downward), and adjusting the chain length does not seem to do anything. There no place to adjust a wire like a Fluidmaster.
Need to know if this is something that I can adjust or replace myself.
Thanks!
The Fluidmaster fill valve is adjustable for how much water you want in your tank. You can screw it down to lower the water level. You might have to loosen it at the bottom which means you will need to drain the tank and catch water below. It could be that it was adjusted higher than you want.
daveduncan40 | Sep 09, 2006
Sounds like the mechanism is shot. Go to Home Depot and buy a new ballcock assembly with the floating ball. At least with those, you can bend the arm of the ball higher or lower to adjust the water level if the valve starts doing strange things like your current one. When you tighten the nut on the underside of the new ballcock assembly, don't tighten it too tight or you might crack the porcelain.
gozu | Sep 09, 2006
my rmz 250?
Jun 08, 2008 by matthewbrideau | Posted in Motorcycles
i just put in a new timing chain seals ring and valve by kawasaki this morning and the bike started in 1 kcik now it wont start at all ?? what should i do i onyl been driven it for 1 hour or so
Kind of tough to say except you need to go through the standard trouble shooting process. Start at the plug and check for spark, if there is spark then check fuel delivery, if that is OK then check the valve clearances and compression. It has got be one of those three things.
MotoMan | Jun 08, 2008
Why would you put Kawasaki gear in a Suzuki RMZ that probably wasn't the smartest thing to do.
Bandit | Jun 08, 2008
When Replacing A Timing Chain On A Small Block 350 Chevy Original Motor?
Aug 22, 2008 by Chevy350Builder | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs
At first, the car backfired badly through the carb (flames) which made me feel that it jumped timing. After that, it has done it a couple more times. When doing all this, we have checked and the distributor is not 180 degrees off. Used a timing light and checked when my friend had his finger on the number 1 plug hole. When it blew, we aligned it to TDC and dropped it in. Still backfired. And then, we checked compression. Before, all were about 145 and now, more than half are around 90-100. My friend and I didn't touch the rings, the pistons, block, valves or anything. We even checked the valves. Check out fine. The lifters are pumping and everything seems fine. So anyway, backfire badly, low compression, and having a hard time starting, my friends and I figure that when it backfired first, it jumped and may have gotten worse or worn out. So anyway, I decided to replace it. Good insurance anyway. Might as well do it now rather than wait and wait if it is even good. I have a new chain sitting right next to me haha. So I'm going to put it on tomorrow.
Well anyway, if it did jump or is worn, then how can I be sure the pistons, valves, cam, crank and all that align? Do I have to align it at TDC and then remove the heads and then set the cam and crank correctly and then set the chain? Or is there no need for that? Hope not haha. Well, what all do I do. If it jumped or is worn, what are the steps? Granted, I know how to get to it and take it off, but I just wanna get an insight on how to install to insure everything is fine. Thanks
1972 Chevelle 350.
Distributor is an MSD HEI Street Fire.
Uh...the cars valves are fine and not bent. We replaced the head gaskets and had the heads checked for cracks. They turned out ok and everything is fit back together. Have done this stuff before so we are 100% sure we are right. Adjusted valves correctly, installed everything and no signs of overheating, coolant in cylinders, white smoke or nothing.
We have checked all that and the timing chain should be my problem. But yeah, if you could answer my question about how to align everything, that'll be sweet. Thanks
CAN'T COUNT THE 350S&400S&454S THAT HAS BEEN BLT IN MY FAMILIES SHOP,THE FIRST THING I'D CK,IS THE GEARS ON THE CAM & CRANK,MAKE SURE YOU ARE LINING THEM STRIGHT UP&DOWN FROM EACH OTHER,IT WOULDN'T HURT TO GET IT TDC FIRST,AFTER THAT SET THE DIST. DWN IN THE GALLY,TAKE A PIPE WRENCH AND A SHOP TWL.(PUT AROUND THE CRANK)MOVE THE CRANK BACK&FORTH JUST ALITTLE,THE DIST. SHOULD SET DOWN IN THE GALLY,PUT THE RETAINER ON THE DIST. THEN BUT FINGER TIGHT ONLY,THEN BEFORE YOU PUT THE PLUGS BACK IN TURN IT OVER WITH THE STARTER A COUPLE OF TURNS,(2OR3) JUST TO MAKE SURE EVERYTHING SEATED.BRING IT BACK UP TO TDC&CK. YOUR ALIGHNMENT ON THE TIMING CHAIN(GEARS)AGINST THE DIST.&TDC,IF EVERYTHING CK'S BUTTON HER UP AND KICK THE TIRES AND LIGHT THE FIRES,SHE SHOULD FIRE W/O ANTY PROBLEMS,YOU MAY HAVE TO ADJ. THE TIMING SOME TO GET IT JUST RIGHT,BUT NO BKFIRES,GOOD LUCK LET ME KNOW HOW IT TURNS OUT.I'M A CHEVELLE OWNER ALSO,1965 SS Z16
D2 | Aug 22, 2008
I never did a Chevy timing chain but I did a SB Ford. Everything had a little dot on it that was supposed to line up to get it close. All the signs of what you have going on sounds like that.
To rough time things once you have the timing gears indexed, there is a trick a friend showed me.
He took a distributor cap and cut a hole where the #1 plug wire went in. We put the distributor where we thought it should be and used a pencil in the spark plug hole to find #1 TDC. Just make sure it is on the compression stroke and not the exhaust. That's easy to do if you have the valve covers off.
When we used that system to check things out, we got it to fire as soon as we turned the key. It was a pretty cool deal.
Good luck man. I know how frustrating this kind of stuff can be.
The Freak Show | Aug 22, 2008
Ive been working on this car for a very long time (i lost count by now) and i say sell it and buy a 69 Camaro or 78 Trans Am :)
bazooka1234 | Aug 23, 2008
dirt bike help plz!!?
Jun 08, 2008 by matthewbrideau | Posted in Motorcycles
i jsut got my bike back from kawasaki today i been drivign ti for 1 hour and now it wotn start has no more compreshoin or w.e u call it and they put in new valve seals and timign chain and ring what could it be is it gaurete could i brign back tohe bike to them?? plz help!!
i can still satrt it by jump start but it wont stay on
just take it back and tell them whats happening.
Jesus C | Jun 08, 2008
I have a 1981 Honda 110cc ATC and having trouble with repairs.?
Jan 29, 2008 by Chris B | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs
Well I had new valves, new piston an ring, plus all new wiring put on it but when i went to set the cam and timing chain back i didn't know how to set the timing so the valves would rise an fall right.
So if there's a way to do it i'd like to know or does it even matter
The timing chain and Cam are the only things on this thing that confuse me.
Specialized S-Works Enduro Carbon BikeRadar.com
03.12.09
Specialized’s all-new Enduro platform potentially has the frame and handling package to set whole new standards for lightweight long-travel trail bikes. The superlight proprietary fork needs some tweaking to release the bike’s full performance, though.
Ride & handling: Light, agile all-rounder that's great fun to ride
The most obvious thing about the
S-Works in ride – or just ‘pick it up and look shocked’ terms – is the
weight, or lack of it. Coming in at under 27lb (without pedals) the
S-Works could give a lot of 140mm bikes a shock on the scales. Light
wheels and tyres offer acceleration to match, and there’s enough length
in the top tube for your breathing to keep up too, while you’re leaving
most 160mm bikes behind.
The new Boost Valve shock
stabilises the sometimes squat-prone FSR linkage really well, giving
a crisp pedalling feel without relying on remembering to flick the Pro
Pedal lever on and off. The more consistent and controlled mid-stroke
reactions of this year’s Fox shock flatters the already very good
tracking and ground connection of the rear wheel. As long as you land
tail first, it sucks up the big stuff and drops without complaint too.
Cutting weight out of a long-travel bike is always a risky
business but Specialized told us at the launch that they have deliberately
gone for a “reasonable balance throughout” on the Enduro. That means while the wheels, tyres and cockpit aren’t the
toughest or tightest pieces, there’s a predictable amount of smear and flex between the very stiff frame/fork and the floor.
Stress and impacts
are also loaded throughout the kit, rather than all concentrated in one
‘weakest link’ section. It might sound like hype, but it works well in practice. We’d definitely shy away from smashing this down
or off really hardcore terrain on a regular basis, but it’s a massive
amount of fun to push much harder than usual on intermediate trails.
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